Mammootty and Anthony Bourdain

Funny story:

In an exclusive interview, Anthony Bourdain shares his culinary experiences in Kerala and his lunch with Mammootty

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Malayalam superstar Mammootty had an unexpected guest—Anthony Bourdain—on the sets of his new film Pokkiri Raja last week. “This was unexpected and I wasn’t prepared to have lunch with him. I served him whatever I had on the sets—meen curry (fish cooked in coconut milk), grilled fish, puttu (a rice dish) and some other vegetarian dishes made with coconut,” recalls Mammootty. And what left Mammootty further amused was, “He ate with his hands. What a modest man.” It’s such simple and local fare that the host of Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations was looking for during his latest visit to India.

“In the West, people want to know more about Kerala and its cuisine. When it comes to spices and variety, Kerala is right up there in my alley,” says Bourdain, who landed in Kochi on March 21. The episode he shot with the Malayalam actor will soon be aired on the Travel Channel in the US in the sixth season of No Reservations. However, Indians will have to patiently wait for it to be aired on Discovery Travel and Living later.

This may be Bourdain’s first visit to Kerala, but he has visited other Indian states like West Bengal and Rajasthan in the past. In fact, Bourdain has been visiting numerous cities worldwide to experience local culture and cuisine for years now. And his repeated visits to India are an indication of the growing interest in the varied local Indian cuisine across the world that goes beyond curry. “Indian food has been under-appreciated in certain parts of the world. I would love to come back again to explore other towns and cities,” says the chef, who loves the spices and the complex flavours of the various Indian cuisines.

Though the Kerala episode features the food of Kochi and nearby areas, Bourdain’s lunch with Mammootty remains its highlight. “I am always fascinated by Bollywood, in this case Mollywood,” admits Bourdain, generously praising the actor’s hospitality. “He was very warm. He served me a variety of fish and vegetarian dishes. But first, we shared knowledge of various types of world cuisines and then we shot the sequence where we were having lunch together,” says the chef-turned-celebrity anchor.

Mammootty too is thrilled to be part of the show. “We discussed various cuisines like Meditarranean, Continental and Portuguese and the Western influences in Indian cuisine. I told him about how Kerala delicacies like Idiyappam, Puttu and Stew are influenced by Portuguese cuisine,” says the actor, who was gifted a book written by Bourdain, A Cook’s Tour—In Search of the Perfect Meal.

While Bourdain has been mainly stationed in Kochi for the shoot, his gourmet hunt took him to nearby villages. He shot with restaurateur and Kerala’s culinary ambassador Das Sreedharan in Thrikkariyoor, a tiny village in Ernakulam. “Das Sreedharan, who is originally from Thrikkariyoor, owns 11 restaurants in London. We shot a major chunk of the episode with him in his village,” says Bourdain. He had another lip-smacking experience at Alleppey in Shibu Danadhan’s houseboat, where he was served some homemade delicacies. His culinary expedition didn’t end there. “I also visited a fish market and a toddy shop in Kochi,” Bourdain smiles.

The 53-year-old will soon be heading to New York to spend time with his wife and daughter, after which he will continue his exploration in Dubai and Beirut. “The last time we were in Beirut, the Israel-Lebanon war broke out. I feel I have some unfinished business there,” he says of his itinerary. In June, another of his books, Medium Raw, the sequel to Kitchen Confidential will be out on the stands.

20 Responses to “Mammootty and Anthony Bourdain”

  1. This is a remarkable story! I wouldn’t mind having some of that meen curry even as we speak!

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  2. chipguy Says:

    Had no idea that puttu and idiyappam had Portuguese influence.
    Now that Lent is over, we’ve broken out the stew and meen curry at home 🙂

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    • I found that detail interesting as well.. one should always be very careful in terms of what one assumes to be the ‘local’.. that which appears to be quintessentially ‘native’ turns out to owe a great deal to the ‘foreign’ or the colonial in this instance. of course the ‘native’ or the ‘familiar’ is always what involves ‘foreign mediation’. But we are rarely aware of this.

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    • Idiyappam I can see having some sort of exterior culinary origin but Puttu was a real surprise…damn I’m getting hungry.

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    • In this sense an old comment (and poem) that I once left on Bachchan’s blog seems relevant because of the provenance of the title:

      Vetiver
      by John Ashbery

      Ages passed slowly, like a load of hay,
      As the flowers recited their lines
      And pike stirred at the bottom of the pond.
      The pen was cool to the touch.
      The staircase swept upward
      Through fragmented garlands, keeping the melancholy
      Already distilled in letters of the alphabet.

      It would be time for winter now, its spun-sugar
      Palaces and also lines of care
      At the mouth, pink smudges on the forehead and cheeks,
      The color once known as “ashes of roses.”
      How many snakes and lizards shed their skins
      For time to be passing on like this,
      Sinking deeper in the sand as it wound toward
      The conclusion. It had all been working so well and now,
      Well, it just kind of came apart in the hand
      As a change is voiced, sharp
      As a fishhook in the throat, and decorative tears flowed
      Past us into a basin called infinity.

      There was no charge for anything, the gates
      Had been left open intentionally.
      Don’t follow, you can have whatever it is.
      And in some room someone examines his youth,
      Finds it dry and hollow, porous to the touch.
      O keep me with you, unless the outdoors
      Embraces both of us, unites us, unless
      The birdcatchers put away their twigs,
      The fishermen haul in their sleek empty nets
      And others become part of the immense crowd
      Around this bonfire, a situation
      That has come to mean us to us, and the crying
      In the leaves is saved, the last silver drops.

      John Ashberry (April Galleons)

      [Vetiver is a kind of grass, somewhat fragrant, and perennial. When allowed to grow it can be quite long and have brownish, purplish flowers. The root word here is Tamil (’ver’ or root) but English gets it from French. Because of the colonial history many words of Indic origin for various spices and nuts and herbs and so on made their way into European languages. Language encodes memory too…]

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      • This is one of my very favorite poems.. among other features the fishhook trope for the poignancy of memory and nostalgia is simply superb.. if I were the poet here I might have substituted fish-bone for fishhook.. those of us who’ve grown up with fish and swallowed fish-bones aplenty accidentally or sometimes thinking we could navigate them down our throats only to discover much like in the other instance and upon feeling that sting as the ‘needle’ traveled down and occasionally got stuck that we had perhaps been too optimistic, those of us with this experience would perhaps be uniquely suited to understand what I consider a marvelous correspondence between such fishhooks and the bitter-sweet economies of memory (as opposed to the somewhat greater violence that a ‘fishhook’ brings to mind).

        Now Ashbery might have this sense of a fishhook as well (even if it is never really used in this sense) though he assuredly does some of its very suggestive sexual overtones, something I discovered after I read the poem for the very first time and looked up some of the possible shades of meaning to this word.

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        • This is a really wonderful little note on that evocative piece, Satyam.

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        • Yeah, that fish-hook/fishbone evocation is especially useful because it covers both sides of the trauma: the one who feels the fishhook caught in his/her throat is the fish — and the fishbone can repay the favor to the one who catches (or at any rate, eats) the fish. In neither case is the experence smooth, painless; in one case it serves as a complete (fatal) break…

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  3. CG, we’ll take that as an invite.

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